Underdial
Most watches under $1,000 depreciate after purchase, typically losing 20, 40% of retail on the secondary market. A handful of discontinued or cult models from Seiko and Orient are exceptions. For this price tier, resale value matters far less than buying a watch you'll actually wear for years.
Spend enough time on any watch forum and you’ll see some version of this question appear weekly: “Will this hold its value if I ever want to sell?” It’s a fair thing to wonder before handing over $400-$900. The honest answer sits somewhere between “not really” and “it depends on exactly which model” — and understanding that gap can save you from both a bad purchase and unrealistic expectations.
A question we hear often: and it usually arrives after someone has read one too many headlines about a Rolex selling for triple its retail price.
The headlines are real, but they describe a narrow slice of the market. Tissot watches — to take a common example — generally do not hold their value like Rolex or Patek Philippe; most are priced to be accessible, which means they depreciate after purchase much like a new car. That same pattern applies across virtually every brand under $1,000: Seiko, Orient, Citizen, Hamilton, and most microbrands all shed value the moment they leave the retailer.
This isn’t a flaw. It’s the nature of consumer-grade watchmaking. Under $1,000 is the ceiling of accessible watchmaking; above this line you enter luxury territory where prices reflect brand prestige as much as engineering, while below it every dollar goes into the watch itself. Prestige is what drives secondary-market premiums, and most sub-$1,000 brands simply aren’t trading on that currency yet.
The actionable point: if someone tells you a specific Seiko or Tissot is “an investment,” they’re speculating. If they’re right, great. But you shouldn’t buy a watch at this price tier because you expect appreciation.
The secondary market doesn’t publish a clean industry-wide average, but resale platform data and watch-dealer pricing suggest most production models in this tier settle at 20-40% below their retail price once used. The range is wide because condition, completeness, and model popularity all move the needle substantially.
In practical terms, a Seiko 5 Sports in box with papers and no scratches might fetch 75 cents on the retail dollar; the same reference worn hard and sold loose might land at 50 cents or less. If there’s a single universal rule for protecting resale value at any price point, it’s this: keep the box, keep the papers, keep the crown in good condition.
| Brand / Model Type | Typical Resale vs. Retail | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Standard Seiko (production) | 50-70% | High supply, widely available |
| Seiko SKX007 (discontinued) | 110-140%+ | Cult following, out of production |
| Seiko SARB017 (discontinued) | 120%+ | Collector demand, limited supply |
| Tissot PRX (current production) | 60-75% | Strong demand but retail is accessible |
| Orient Bambino (current) | 45-60% | High production volume, thin resale demand |
| Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical | 65-80% | Military heritage keeps floor firm |
| Microbrand (most models) | 30-55% | Low brand liquidity, narrow buyer pool |
| Citizen Eco-Drive (standard) | 40-60% | Utilitarian; condition-sensitive |
This one comes up a lot: usually from buyers eyeing older references on eBay and wondering if they missed a boat.
The mechanism is straightforward: production stops, supply is fixed, but demand from new enthusiasts keeps arriving. The SKX007 sold for around $150-$200 new and now regularly trades at $250-$350 or more for clean examples. The SARB017 “Cocktail Time” followed the same arc.
The catch — and it’s important — is that you cannot reliably predict which current production model will become the next SKX007. Most of today’s current-production Seiko 5 Sports models will never replicate that trajectory because they’re made in far greater quantities and serve a different collector psychology. Buying a current Seiko hoping for appreciation is fine, but don’t base the purchasing decision on it.
Yes, brand recognition is one of the most significant drivers of resale liquidity in this tier.
Microbrand watches from Baltic, Lorier, Nodus, or Traska often punch well above their price in materials and finishing. But the resale pool for a Baltic Aquascaphe is thin compared to a Tissot PRX. Fewer buyers means longer selling times and more price negotiation. You’re buying the specs, not the brand.
That said, companies like Baltic, Lorier, Christopher Ward, and Traska have built genuine communities around clear design languages and founder-led visions. If someone tells you that doesn’t matter, they haven’t spent time in those communities. Whether that loyalty eventually translates to secondary-market strength the way Seiko’s enthusiast culture did remains to be seen. If you want maximum specs for your dollar and resale is an afterthought, microbrands can be excellent. If you want a watch that sells easily, stick with mainstream names. Neither choice is wrong — just make it consciously.
Readers frequently ask: whether Orient’s value proposition extends beyond the purchase price.
Most Orient models depreciate similarly to Seiko’s mainstream lineup. The advantage Orient offers is different: because it makes its own movements and keeps parts available, a well-serviced Orient holds up mechanically over years of ownership. That keeps your cost-per-day-of-enjoyment low even if the resale number is unexciting. The Orient Star line — which features in-house movements with power reserve indicators rarely seen under $1,000 — has a more devoted collector following than the base Orient range, and those examples tend to retain value slightly better.
Several factors stack on top of each other.
Production status matters most. Discontinued models with devoted followings outperform anything still on shelves. Once a reference is gone, supply is fixed.
Condition is close behind. Watches with original parts, minimal wear, and complete packaging consistently achieve higher resale prices. Scratches, replacement parts, or a missing box each take a bite.
Special editions and collaborations hold stronger value than standard catalogue pieces, particularly limited runs tied to anniversaries or partnerships.
Market trends shift things too. Sporty or highly functional watches tend to have stronger demand among enthusiasts at any given moment.
Finally, brand serviceability matters to buyers. A watch with a known, serviceable movement commands more confidence. The broad availability of parts for Seiko’s NH35/NH36 family and Tissot’s Powermatic 80 makes buyers more comfortable purchasing used examples.
Honestly, only a little. At this price tier, resale value is a useful tiebreaker, not a primary criterion.
The smarter framing: buy the watch you’ll actually wear consistently. A watch worn and enjoyed daily for a decade has delivered far more value than one purchased speculatively, worn rarely, and sold at a modest loss. If your shortlist comes down to two otherwise-equal watches and one has meaningfully better secondary market history, that’s worth a nudge. But it shouldn’t dictate a choice you’ll wear on your wrist every day.
If you want help checking whether a specific model is redundant with something you already own — or whether your budget is genuinely best spent elsewhere — Underdial’s watch advisor does exactly that: it checks any watch under $1,000 against your current collection, your budget, and your wrist size before you commit.
Do watches under $1,000 ever appreciate in value? Yes, but rarely and unpredictably. The clearest examples are discontinued Seiko references like the SKX007 and SARB017, which now trade well above their original retail prices. Current-production models from any brand almost never appreciate while still in production.
Do Seiko watches hold their value? Seiko watches vary in resale performance depending on the model, rarity, and market demand. Most standard models depreciate after purchase. Certain discontinued or limited editions are the exception, not the rule.
Do Tissot watches hold their value? Generally no, though you are buying a well-made watch that lasts for decades. Some models are more desirable than others, and limited-edition pieces may hold value reasonably well. Standard models usually depreciate.
Which affordable watch brands hold value the best? Among sub-$1,000 brands, Seiko (select discontinued references), Orient Star, and Hamilton Khaki Field variants tend to retain value more reliably than average. Microbrands typically depreciate more steeply because their resale market is narrow.
Does keeping the box and papers help resale value? Yes, significantly. Resale platform data consistently shows complete sets (box, papers, hang tags) commanding meaningfully higher prices than loose watches in the same condition — sometimes 15-25% more.
Should I buy a watch as an investment under $1,000? No — not reliably. The sub-$1,000 tier is a consumer product category, not an asset class. Buy because you want to wear and enjoy it. If it retains value, that’s a bonus, not the plan.
Do Seiko watches hold their value?
Standard Seiko models depreciate like most production watches. However, discontinued references such as the SKX007 and SARB017 now trade above their original retail prices due to collector demand. Limited editions and Prospex dive models tend to hold value better than everyday catalogue pieces.
Do Tissot watches hold their value?
Generally, no. Most Tissot models lose value after purchase, much like consumer electronics. Limited editions and vintage chronograph references are occasional exceptions. The PRX has strong secondary demand, but it still typically sells below retail on the grey market.
Which affordable watch brands hold value the best?
Among sub-$1,000 brands, Seiko (select discontinued references), Orient (certain Star models), and Hamilton (Khaki Field variants with cult followings) tend to retain value more than average. Microbrands typically depreciate steeply because resale liquidity is thin.
Does keeping the box and papers help resale value?
Yes, significantly. A watch sold with its original box, hang tags, and service history documentation consistently commands a higher price on the secondary market, sometimes 15, 25% more than the same watch sold loose, according to resale platform data.
Should I buy a watch as an investment under $1,000?
No, not reliably. The sub-$1,000 tier is a consumer product category, not an asset class. Buy a watch at this price because you want to wear and enjoy it. If it retains value, that's a bonus, not the plan.